Facebook Page
I have a Facebook page now to help group plant-minded (or aspiring plant-minders) in my area. The link is in the box at the right.
Plant Picture Update
As of now I have taken pictures of, and organized, 517 species representing 110 families. And I've barely scratched the surface! I've sure learned a lot, researching these plants. It seems the more I learn, the more I realize I don't know much. Ever get that feeling?
Huge Undertaking
I fear I have started an undertaking that will only end with my life, or my sanity, whichever comes first. I recently bought a 1TB hard drive for my computer, and after copying my entire existing hard drive over I started to think about what else I could do to fill it up. So I started collecting pictures of plants. Not pictures that I find on the internet, but pictures that I have taken myself. I have them all organized by family and so far I have over 60 families represented. I have no idea how many genera I have.
Whenever I travel to a new area (which is not very often) I take pictures of all the plants I didn't have pictures of. My family took a day trip to the beautiful mountains of Arizona and I spent a good half hour walking around taking pictures of just about every plant I found - even the weeds - they're plants too and therefore must be in my collection! The growing problem now is finding out what plant I just took a picture of. Even with my above average knowledge base of plants, there are so many I don't know...
Whenever I travel to a new area (which is not very often) I take pictures of all the plants I didn't have pictures of. My family took a day trip to the beautiful mountains of Arizona and I spent a good half hour walking around taking pictures of just about every plant I found - even the weeds - they're plants too and therefore must be in my collection! The growing problem now is finding out what plant I just took a picture of. Even with my above average knowledge base of plants, there are so many I don't know...
Meridian Magazine :: The Tap Root: Time to Prepare for Planting
These articles were written for Meridian Magazine by my good friend, Lucas Proctor, with whom I studied and learned in the field of horiticulture at Brigham Young University-Idaho.
This link is for the first of his articles. For the list of his articles just click on "The Tap Root Archive" in the right column.
Meridian Magazine :: The Tap Root: Time to Prepare for Planting
Shared via AddThis
This link is for the first of his articles. For the list of his articles just click on "The Tap Root Archive" in the right column.
Meridian Magazine :: The Tap Root: Time to Prepare for Planting
Shared via AddThis
Interesting Trees
I was at a local community college the other day and I saw some very interesting trees. I didn't know what either of them were. But the internet is a marvelous thing. I was able to find out what both trees are! See them here.
Pink Trumpet Tree (Tebebuia impetignosa).
It turns out these trees are:
Cascalote (Caesalpinia cacalaco)Pink Trumpet Tree (Tebebuia impetignosa).
House Plants
Q: I'm looking at getting a house plant but I don't know what I should get. Any suggestions?
A: Well, there are literally hundreds of choices when it comes to house plants. Some of them are tall, some are short. Some grow quickly, some grow very slowly. They come in green, yellow, white, pink, red, and other colors; and that's just the foliage! Some of them bloom, but most of them don't. Many of them even clean the air as well!
Light
Some of the houseplants available aren't really suited to the low-light conditions of the indoors. These include Gerber Daisies, majesty palms, and coconut palms. One that I like that is particularly suited to very low-light conditions is the Emerald Beauty Chinese Evergreen. I know of an Emerald Beauty that continues to look really, really good after a year of getting only 8 or so hours of flourecent light five days a week and no light on weekends. Most houseplants are native to jungles so they are quite tolerant of the low-light levels most houses can give to plants.
Favorites
Some of my favorite house plants are the following:
Plants indicated with an asterisk (*) have been shown to be among the ten best plants at removing formaldehyde, benzene, AND carbon monoxide from the air**. Use at least one potted plant per 100 square feet for best air cleaning results***
Inverse Variegated Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum variegatum 'Inverse') - Very efficient at removing carbon monoxide from the air.
Heart-leaf Philodendron (Philodendron scandens 'oxycardium') - Excellent at removing formaldehyde from the air. - Variegated forms available.
Tropic Snow Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia ameona 'Tropic Snow') - Beautiful large (10-12") leaves, but Don't let kids eat this one!
*Emerald Beauty Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema 'Emerald Beauty')
Cat Palm (Chamaedorea cataractarum)
Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa) - Variegated forms available.
Ben Fig (Ficus benjamina) - Variegated forms available.China Doll (Radermachera sinica)
*Peace Lily (Spathaphyllum species) - Variegated forms available.
Lucky Bamboo (Dracena sanderiana) - Variegated forms available.
Oak-Leaf Ivy (Cissus rhombifolia 'Ellen Danica')
*Variegated Snake Plant (Sanseveria trifasciata 'Laurentii')
I hope this helps!
For additional information on specific house plants I recommend a book called The House Plant Expert by Dr. D. G. Hessayon. This book gives general and specific information on lighting, watering, troubleshooting and much more for hundreds of the most common house plants.
**According to this website.
***According to this website.
A: Well, there are literally hundreds of choices when it comes to house plants. Some of them are tall, some are short. Some grow quickly, some grow very slowly. They come in green, yellow, white, pink, red, and other colors; and that's just the foliage! Some of them bloom, but most of them don't. Many of them even clean the air as well!
Light
Some of the houseplants available aren't really suited to the low-light conditions of the indoors. These include Gerber Daisies, majesty palms, and coconut palms. One that I like that is particularly suited to very low-light conditions is the Emerald Beauty Chinese Evergreen. I know of an Emerald Beauty that continues to look really, really good after a year of getting only 8 or so hours of flourecent light five days a week and no light on weekends. Most houseplants are native to jungles so they are quite tolerant of the low-light levels most houses can give to plants.
Favorites
Some of my favorite house plants are the following:
Plants indicated with an asterisk (*) have been shown to be among the ten best plants at removing formaldehyde, benzene, AND carbon monoxide from the air**. Use at least one potted plant per 100 square feet for best air cleaning results***
Inverse Variegated Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum variegatum 'Inverse') - Very efficient at removing carbon monoxide from the air.
Heart-leaf Philodendron (Philodendron scandens 'oxycardium') - Excellent at removing formaldehyde from the air. - Variegated forms available.
Tropic Snow Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia ameona 'Tropic Snow') - Beautiful large (10-12") leaves, but Don't let kids eat this one!
*Emerald Beauty Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema 'Emerald Beauty')
Cat Palm (Chamaedorea cataractarum)
Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa) - Variegated forms available.
Ben Fig (Ficus benjamina) - Variegated forms available.China Doll (Radermachera sinica)
*Peace Lily (Spathaphyllum species) - Variegated forms available.
Lucky Bamboo (Dracena sanderiana) - Variegated forms available.
Oak-Leaf Ivy (Cissus rhombifolia 'Ellen Danica')
*Variegated Snake Plant (Sanseveria trifasciata 'Laurentii')
I hope this helps!
For additional information on specific house plants I recommend a book called The House Plant Expert by Dr. D. G. Hessayon. This book gives general and specific information on lighting, watering, troubleshooting and much more for hundreds of the most common house plants.
**According to this website.
***According to this website.
Figs
Q: My friend has a fig tree in her back yard. It is about 10 or 11 years old. It has never been pruned as far as I know. It produces white figs, but they always fall to the ground before they can be eaten. How should it be pruned, and would pruning it help the fruit be better, or does it need to be fertilized somehow?
A: It's hard to say exactly what the problem is here without actually seeing the tree. It could be an issue with bad pruning practices (or no pruning practices), insects, or poor soil quality. Generally speaking though, pruning will increase the vigor of the tree and fertilizing correctly never hurts. I would use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen (1st number) and is high in phosphorus (2nd number). Nitrogen encourages green growth of the tree and if you give too much of it even fewer fruit will develop. Phosphorus encourages blossoming and fruit set. Any nursery that carries fertilizer should have triple-super-phosphate (0-45-0) which is what I would recommend.
The best thing to do is to determine exactly what the problem is. Are there signs of insects, yellowing/rotting leaves, dead branches, mold growth, etc.? Answering these questions can help you correctly diagnose and correct the problem.
A: It's hard to say exactly what the problem is here without actually seeing the tree. It could be an issue with bad pruning practices (or no pruning practices), insects, or poor soil quality. Generally speaking though, pruning will increase the vigor of the tree and fertilizing correctly never hurts. I would use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen (1st number) and is high in phosphorus (2nd number). Nitrogen encourages green growth of the tree and if you give too much of it even fewer fruit will develop. Phosphorus encourages blossoming and fruit set. Any nursery that carries fertilizer should have triple-super-phosphate (0-45-0) which is what I would recommend.
The best thing to do is to determine exactly what the problem is. Are there signs of insects, yellowing/rotting leaves, dead branches, mold growth, etc.? Answering these questions can help you correctly diagnose and correct the problem.
Okra
Q: My okra plants have slowed down production quite a bit, but are still alive and producing a little. Should I pull them out or should I cut them down (are they perennials?). I read that they can be annuals or perennials, but I'm not sure what to do with them. Which would be better? Thank you for your help.
A: Okra is a warm-season vegetable. It will die if it is exposed to cold temperatures. In the United States it is mostly grown as an annual garden vegetable. I would pull them out and start afresh next year. Actually, you can leave two or three of the plants to see if they come back and produce for you next year (don't cut these three down). I'd be very interested to see how they winter over in warmer climates.
A: Okra is a warm-season vegetable. It will die if it is exposed to cold temperatures. In the United States it is mostly grown as an annual garden vegetable. I would pull them out and start afresh next year. Actually, you can leave two or three of the plants to see if they come back and produce for you next year (don't cut these three down). I'd be very interested to see how they winter over in warmer climates.
Tree Pruning
Q: How should I prune my trees?
A: Professionals use what is called the three-cut-method. Start by making a cut from the bottom through about a third of the branch. Make this cut a few inches from the trunk. Then cut the branch weight off by cutting from the top down, just outside your first cut. Then you can cut next to the trunk to remove the base. If you've ever had a branch rip the bark off the tree as it fell you'll know why this method is preferred. One thing to look for is what is called the collar. This is a little swollen part that goes around the base of every branch. The collar is the part that will grow around the cut to seal it off. A good cut that is next to the collar will heal much faster than if you leave a stub. The position of the collar varies from species to species (pine (not spruce or fir) collars are below the bark on the trunk. These branches can be cut flush with the trunk). Look for the collar on your trees and try not to cut through it. It may take practice (start on smaller branches), but you'll get it.
A: Professionals use what is called the three-cut-method. Start by making a cut from the bottom through about a third of the branch. Make this cut a few inches from the trunk. Then cut the branch weight off by cutting from the top down, just outside your first cut. Then you can cut next to the trunk to remove the base. If you've ever had a branch rip the bark off the tree as it fell you'll know why this method is preferred. One thing to look for is what is called the collar. This is a little swollen part that goes around the base of every branch. The collar is the part that will grow around the cut to seal it off. A good cut that is next to the collar will heal much faster than if you leave a stub. The position of the collar varies from species to species (pine (not spruce or fir) collars are below the bark on the trunk. These branches can be cut flush with the trunk). Look for the collar on your trees and try not to cut through it. It may take practice (start on smaller branches), but you'll get it.
Tools:
- A pruning saw has a narrow, sometimes curved blade that is easy to get between branches to cut where you need to.
- Anvil or bypass pruners are a necessity for removing most branches under 3/4 inches. I prefer bypass pruners because they don't crush the wood as much. Some people swear by anvil though.
- A long-handled pole pruner can help you keep your feet on the ground. Just watch out when the branches fall.
- Long sleeves are a must unless you don't mind getting scratches on your arms.
Winter Preparation of Your Yard
Q: What should I do to prepare my yard for Winter?
A: What you do for your yard in the Fall can have quite an effect on what the weather does to it in the Winter.
Aerating
Lawn aeration is beneficial because it allows the ground to expand and contract as it freezes and thaws. This breaks apart compacted soil, creating more pore space in the soil for water and air to get in the following season (a good thing). It also reduces the grass thatch layer because the plugs that are pulled from the ground will break down and fill in the spaces in the thatch. Over time the thatch can be completely filled with soil. Bacteria that are naturally found in soil can then work to decompose the dead grass material, thus providing more nitrogen, and hence a greener lawn (you'll still need to fertilize in the Spring if you want your lawn to look its best, but this helps).
Tree Pruning
Another thing is PRUNE YOUR TREES! It sounds so simple, and perhaps unimportant, but few people actually do it. It takes maybe an hour per tree each year (less if you do it every year) and it can have a major impact on the health of your trees through the cold and snowy winter months. A well-pruned tree allows more wind to pass through it without breaking limbs, and it also allows more snow to fall through to the ground rather than collecting all on the branches. Trees that are pruned look better and are generally healthier all around.
Sprinklers
Some people like to have their sprinkler systems winterized. This consists of hooking up an air compressor and blowing all the water out of the lines. A few friends have told me that they only have pipes break when they do this, and not when they don't, so I'm not sure how mandatory it is. If what you've done for the last 47 years has worked in your yard, that's great! Don't change now. If you decide to have your sprinklers winterized let a professional do it for you.
Flower Beds
One more thing is to remember your perennials. Plants that are all leaves (daylilies, hostas, coral bells, etc.) should be cut to just a couple inches above the ground after they start to look mostly dead (or slightly alive). Allow the leaves to stay as long as possible because the plant is still using the green leaves to store energy in the roots so it can emerge next year. This especially applies to bulbs. In general, if your plant is a woody shrub (lavender, butterfly bush, spirea, etc.) prune in the Fall for aesthetics in the Spring. If it's herbaceous (lilies, phlox, asters), cut it down. You can prune, but don't cut down anything that's evergreen (most succulents fall into this category (don't prune succulents though)).
A: What you do for your yard in the Fall can have quite an effect on what the weather does to it in the Winter.
Aerating
Lawn aeration is beneficial because it allows the ground to expand and contract as it freezes and thaws. This breaks apart compacted soil, creating more pore space in the soil for water and air to get in the following season (a good thing). It also reduces the grass thatch layer because the plugs that are pulled from the ground will break down and fill in the spaces in the thatch. Over time the thatch can be completely filled with soil. Bacteria that are naturally found in soil can then work to decompose the dead grass material, thus providing more nitrogen, and hence a greener lawn (you'll still need to fertilize in the Spring if you want your lawn to look its best, but this helps).
Tree Pruning
Another thing is PRUNE YOUR TREES! It sounds so simple, and perhaps unimportant, but few people actually do it. It takes maybe an hour per tree each year (less if you do it every year) and it can have a major impact on the health of your trees through the cold and snowy winter months. A well-pruned tree allows more wind to pass through it without breaking limbs, and it also allows more snow to fall through to the ground rather than collecting all on the branches. Trees that are pruned look better and are generally healthier all around.
Sprinklers
Some people like to have their sprinkler systems winterized. This consists of hooking up an air compressor and blowing all the water out of the lines. A few friends have told me that they only have pipes break when they do this, and not when they don't, so I'm not sure how mandatory it is. If what you've done for the last 47 years has worked in your yard, that's great! Don't change now. If you decide to have your sprinklers winterized let a professional do it for you.
Flower Beds
One more thing is to remember your perennials. Plants that are all leaves (daylilies, hostas, coral bells, etc.) should be cut to just a couple inches above the ground after they start to look mostly dead (or slightly alive). Allow the leaves to stay as long as possible because the plant is still using the green leaves to store energy in the roots so it can emerge next year. This especially applies to bulbs. In general, if your plant is a woody shrub (lavender, butterfly bush, spirea, etc.) prune in the Fall for aesthetics in the Spring. If it's herbaceous (lilies, phlox, asters), cut it down. You can prune, but don't cut down anything that's evergreen (most succulents fall into this category (don't prune succulents though)).
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